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Monday, April 19, 2010

Exfoliation 101

Working as a Skin Therapist, I am kind of shocked when I ask my clients if they exfoliate and they say, "what's exfoliate?"

So here it is: EXFOLIATION 101 the simple version

What is Exfoliation?
Sloughing off dead skin cells, dirt, oil, and debris from the surface of the skin

Why Exfoliate?
In order to promote new skin cell growth, we need to eliminate the "crap" that's preventing the new skin cells from doing their magic... which is:
  • improving resistance against the environment
  • helping build up Collagen and Elastin
  • and overall, helping to improve a brighter more youthful appearance of the skin
As we age, our skin renewal cycle slows, along with everything else... Exfoliating helps speed up our cell renewal process.

Other benefits of exfoliation:
  • helps with acne by eliminating the "crap" that's holding in the bacteria on the skin that causes breakouts
  • helps with scarring from acne and sun damage
  • promotes a smooth, even complexion
Now, this the most important part...
What to exfoliate with
There are two types of exfoliants: chemical and physical
Chemical exfoliants:
Include: Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), and Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)
Physical exfoliants:
Include: grainy scrubs that feel sandy or rough, or cleansers that have "micro-scrubbers" or "micro-beads"

Chemical vs Physical

Chemical
Positive
  • penetrate the skin better because of it's small molecular size.
  • promotes a higher state of Collagen and Elastin
Negative
  • can be irritating to sensitive skin
  • a few amount of people can have allergic reactions
  • can take a few days to show it's effectiveness
Expect to feel a slight tingle with chemical exfoliants and redness may occour for longer than using a physical exfoliant

Physical
Positive
  • No chemicals are involved so there's less risk of burning sensation or slight irritation
  • Super natural ingredients (most of the time)
  • Immediate results of smooth, even skin
Negative
  • can irritate the Epidermis (outer layer of the skin) due to larger molecular size
  • often have uneven shaped particles, or rough edges, (ie: a certain brands Apricot Scrub) that can lead to outer layer skin scratches and micro-tears
My opinion
I love chemical exfoliants! Including chemical peels. They do take a little bit longer to show full results but it's worth the wait. Slight flaking or peeling may occur with chemical exfoliants but that just lets me know that it's doing it's job!
Mild physical exfoliants are perfect for the "in-between" treatments between chemical peels because it will eliminate that slight flaking or peeling


Ultimate Opinion:
They compliment each other

The Rules of Exfoliation
  • Base your exfoliant on the thickness of the skin. The thicker the skin, the more it can take!
  • Do NOT over do it! Once a week is cool for either type of exfoliant
  • Limit Chemical peels to once every 4-6 weeks to avoid thinning of the skin and possible cell damage
  • Natural is ALWAYS the best!!!
My fave is a physical exfoliant:
This product is awesome because you can mix it with your favorite cleanser or use it by itself...

... And my ultimate fave is something for your entire body
Use with your favorite body wash (sulfate-free, of course) and lather up starting from your feet moving upward toward the heart.  The cloth is extra long so you don't have to miss an inch!  ... it's easy to store and it's machine washable!







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